From Japan’s Alaska to Japan’s Hawaii: 7 Reasons To Cycle Japan

Are you looking for magnificent rides with the best quality of food to refuel?  Hot springs to relax after the ride? And some of the best unwinding activities?

Even though Taiwan, as the cycling heart of Asia, ticks some of the boxes, Japan has even more to offer!

After a hard to beat New Zealand, a friend from Uni told me to travel to Japan. If you can’t beat a country, you better choose one that is totally different.  His argument – find yourself immersed in a completely exotic culture while having a few weeks of ‘luxury cycling’ before leaving again for the wild. 

Here are the 7 things I really miss after over 4,000 km on the road in the land of the rising sun.

SOME HIGHLIGHTS

  • The Japanese Alaska –  In Hokkaido, lavender fields meet volcanic mountains inhabited by Brown Bears, and coastal roads lead to hidden hot springs. Akita and Aomori on Honshu Island are quite similar.
  • Rural Japan –  Beyond the ‘Shinkansen Track’ you will travel back in time. Shikoku has Shimanami and Tobishima Kaido – built on unused roads and bridges from the economic book in the 80s. Cycle spiritual paths used by Buddhist pilgrims. For quiet roads, explore Amakusa Islands. Relax in Okinawa, the Japanese Hawaii.
  • Safety – For bikepacking women, there is no better place to start than Japan. Drivers respect rules. You are also in for a cultural shock – Japanese are perfectionists, and nothing gets stolen, so you don’t need a lock.  Protect your food from monkeys though!
  • Top Class Infrastructure – Great roads, omnipresent Kombini with free Wifi, toilets & water, regional snacks from Michi-no-eki and variety of accommodation. Japan has it all. 
  • Cuisine & Onsens – Each prefecture has its own specialities. Onsens are often combined with great food and a tatami room to have a nap.
  • L’Après Vélo –  Learn some Japanese and get invited to Hippie Houseparty, join festivals if you cycle the North in the summer.
  • Sakura – If you’re fast, you can cycle up Japan and time it with the Cherry Blossoms. 
Here is the full analysis

#1 The Japanese Alaska

Japan's Last Frontier - Shiretoko National Park

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Laku Mashu
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Shiretoko National Park

You won’t find North American type wilderness in much of Japan. But there are parts that are extremely wild. 

The North-Eastern corner of Hokkaido and its ‘last-frontier’ Shiretoko National Park has very much a mini Alaska/Yukon feel to it. 

It has the highest concentration of Grizzly bears in the World (although they are smaller in size than the ones I saw in Alaska). A bear spray is highly recommended. 

Another great spot you may consider is Shakotan Peninsula, south-west from Sapporo. Hokkaido is known for Japow (incredible snow quality) but it should be up there in terms of being a cycling paradise. 

Akita and Aomori in North Honshu are quite similar.

Bottom line: as a cyclist you can’t skip Hokkaido

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#2 Rural Japan

Cycling BAck in Time

After cycling through most of Japan, one of my friends in Tokyo asked me whether I preferred urban or rural Japan.

Rural Japan is much more authentic.

One of the most visually appealing parts of cycling in Japan is contemplating the architecture. And rural Japan has a lot to offer. The only challenge is the language – once you leave Tokyo or Osaka, knowing a few words in Japanese will help (and impress locals).

Listening to Koto music and cycling through historical villages makes you travel in time.

Bottom line: learn a few words in Japanese and discover authentic Japan

From Spiritual Shikoku to The Japanese Hawaii

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Cape Hedo in Okinawa
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Heartland of Shikoku

The Japanese archipelago stretches nearly 3,000 km from North to South – the variety of landscapes is surprising.

The one aspect that initially put me off before I discovered Japan is its large population. With 126 million people, I imagined cycling wouldn’t be a pleasant experience.

Most of the typical tourist spots are on the Shinkansen Track, with vast concentrations around urban areas – Tokyo has a population of 40 million – roughly the size of an average European country.

The rest of Japan is sparsely populated. You can even cycle through ghost towns.

Wildlife is rife and you need to pay attention, especially after sunset. I almost crashed into a wild boar on a small island near Nagasaki. It is scarier than kangaroos or deer.

There are challenging mountain passes from Akita and Aomori to Nagano. Locals rarely see foreign cyclists in Tohoku Region so you will be spoiled and may be sent ‘meeting anniversary’ messages from exceptional people! Incredible.

Okinawa with its incredible beaches, while popular amongst Japanese, is rarely visited by foreigners. It’s a perfect stop to recover before embarking on a new adventure, like Taiwan.

Bottom line: don’t fall for the common trap – the Honshu Shinkansen track is the least pleasant part for a cyclist

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#3 Safe Starter for Women

Perfect first bikepacking destination For Women

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Shakotan Peninsula
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Amakusa Islands

During my travels, someone once told me: if you travel to Asia, go first to China  and then cross the sea to discover Japan. Not the opposite, mainly due to comfort of travel.

I actually found crossing the Pacific Ocean a bit of a struggle after leaving Japan.

Japan is not without its social problems.

But you don’t see that much social class differentiation in Japan, homelessness is rare. So is drug addiction and theft. 

To illustrate the contrast, I saw a CANYON Ultimate CF SLX 8.0 unlocked in the middle of Ginza, Tokyo. I have one of them back in Europe – the price tag is approx. £2,500. The owner was arguably a bit foolish, since there are thieves in large Japanese cities now. Foreigners.

That said, I almost always left my fully-loaded bike outside an onsen in rural Japan unlocked.

Helmets are rare, police not really needed

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Cycling in Osaka
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No helmets needed

I don't mind men behind the wheel

Cycling in Japan is safe to the point that most people actually don’t usually wear helmets. Part of it is due to the fact that they cycle on sidewalks.

In most countries, I always wish women were behind the wheel. Cyclists are just safer, on average.

In Japan, I found all drivers to be generally more considerate.

Unless it's a monkey, you don't need a lock

A friend of mine traveled from Okinawa to Hokkaido. For her, bikepacking may have been be more difficult – for safety reasons. 

But as a woman, there is no better place to start safe, long-distance cycling than Japan.

Close your bags carefully, though. Monkeys can steal food in the middle of the night!

Bottom line: Japan is one of the safest countries for cyclists

#4 Top Class Infrastructure

Roads

Top Notch roads: Cycling porn

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Kumamoto Prefecture
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Aomori Prefecture

Japan has a prime infrastructure. It is not specifically designed with cyclists in mind (unlike Korea), but it is extremely well suited.

The only downside is that given the habit of cycling on sidewalks, there are hardly dedicated cycling lanes, but this is now changing especially in big cities.

There are a couple of notable exceptions (Shimanami Kaido & Tobishima Kaido). 

Both are dedicated playgrounds for cyclists, built on unused roads and bridges constructed during the economic book in the 80s.  A little gem, if you’re near Japan’s cultural centres.

Rest Areas

Michi-no-Eki

These all-in-one rest areas were created for drivers that do long-distance travel but also for tourists. As such they offer a combination of toilets, shops, ‘legal’ camp areas and sometimes onsens, and tatami rest-rooms.

If you are a beginner adventure cyclist, Japan will teach you how to leverage local infrastructure to your advantage. It just can’t get easier.

Konbini, Supas and Vending Machines

Konbinis, or the Japanese convenience stores are a piece of essential infrastructure that serves as a shelter in case of earthquake and are interconnected via a national delivery system (you can ship anything from anywhere in Japan using this network). 

There are four main ones – 7 Eleven (not to be confused with the North American one that can’t compete with Japanese), Lawson (my favorite), Family Mart (also available in countries like Taiwan) and Seikomart (mainly Hokkaido).

For a cyclist, it means unparalleled convenience –  tap water, free WiFi, often a place to sit down and enjoy an onigiri or natto while charging electronics and access to toilets.  

Cheap supermarket food can be healthy in Japan.

Fermented food, pickles or, onigiris at every street corner.

In Japan, the obesity rate is at 3% (over 10x lower than US). Interestingly, as you cycle through Japan you spot a pattern – the more you approach Hokkaido, the higher the obesity rate

Not surprisingly, Hokkaido diet is much closer to Western countries (e.g. more milk products than rest of Japan ).

And the ‘cherry on the cake’ are vending machines. There are probably more vending machines in Japan than any other country. 

In fact, you can enjoy a hot coffee from one of them, in the middle of Hokkaido. And a variety of sports drinks.  

Accommodation

Campground, Cycling Hotels & Ryokans

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Traditional - Ryokan near Mount Fuji (Odawara)
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Cheap, clean and modern - Capsule Hotel in Nihonbashi (Tokyo)

Between free to use Michi no eki, wild camping, hostels, capsules or traditional, more expensive Ryokans – the choice is vast. All of them are maintained with the Japanese strive for excellence and top quality of service.

Bottom line: Japan offers some of the best infrastructures in the World

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As of 29/03/2024, Interactive Brokers offers rates up to 4.738% (GBP), 3.445% (EUR) and 4.83% (USD) on cash. 

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As of 29/03/2024, Interactive Brokers offers rates up to 4.738% (GBP), 3.445% (EUR) and 4.83% (USD) on cash. 

#5 Cuisine & Onsens

Japanese Cuisine

Each Prefecture has its own specialities and seasonal food

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Locals will tell you where the best food is - Aji or the Japanese horse mackerel (Okayama)
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Japanese Curry getting traction even in India now I heard (Amakusa Islands)
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Unbeatable Homemade food (Tokyo)
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Can't eat sushi outside Japan now (Hokkaido)

Given that Japanese people tend to live is small flats, eating out is part of the culture. 

Restaurants are an extension of Japanese homes

They are usually cozy and you get to meet other people and the chefs.

Per capita, there are 91 restaurants for every 10,000 people in Japan vs. 23 in the US.  

Bottom line: you will eat great food, very diverse depending on the region for $10

Unwind after the ride

Onsen & Sento

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Onsen on Shakotan Peninsula
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Sento overseeing Mount Yotei (Niseko)

I usually start a day in Japan by knowing which Onsen (aka treat of the day) I will visit. For that, learn a few Kanjis – it’s useful to type 温泉 into your Maps.ME app to end your day in a hot spring.

The best ones are in Hokkaido and Kyushu. I did find, some traditional mixed-gender Onsens in Aomori and Akita. 

Sentos are available in most hotels except Okinawa, where it’s relatively rare.

Tatami Rooms

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Post Onsen relax - Food & Tatami Room (Kumamoto Prefecture)
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Traditional mixed gender Onsens are usually off the beaten path

Most Onsens are combined with restaurants and rooms where you can relax on a Tatami mat. 

It’s either a great place to take a break in the middle of your ride and have a nap or relax in the evening.

#6 Unbeatable 'Après-vÉlo'

People

JapAnese hospitality

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Traditional Kimonos (Kyoto)
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Friends from Tokyo and Hokkaido

The more you travel, the more you realize that despite major cultural differences in all countries, we are all the same. Fears, ambitions, things we love. 

But Japanese people strike by their kindness and consideration for other people.

Structures that Japan has in place have their pro and cons. But as my friend from Tokyo summarized “Given the unique rules and long periods of historical separation from the rest of the World, Japanese society is like some sort of unique large scale social-experiment“. Make up your own mind, but do look beyond stereotypes.

Culture

Architecture, History and Festivals

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Safe Haven - Nomura Samurai House Private Garden (Kanazawa)
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Local festival (Nagasaki), for more festivals you will need to stay during the rainy season

I won’t even attempt to describe the extent of my cultural experience in Japan but I would highly recommend thinking outside the box – I usually do not open a guidebook when I visit a country.

Want to visit Kyoto? Why not try a smaller, less crowded Kanazawa with its beautiful gardens and Samurai neighborhood

Shinkanzen track leads you to Hiroshima? The local Okonomiyaki is delicious but I think Nagasaki has more to offer, as the city that was the window to the outside World during the Edo period

Chatting to a Geisha in a tea bar is a unique experience. There are only a few hundreds of them in Japan nowadays, and staying on the classic track probably won’t help you.

For a great audiobook during your cycling I’d recommend Understanding Japan by Mark J. Ravinda (Smithsonian Great Courses)

Nightlife

You get to really know Japanese people after work, ideally in a local izakaya. Google translate can help in remote areas!

Bottom line: once off your Bike, the richness of Japan’s culture is hard to match

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#7 Sakura

End Of March - The Start of Japan's Magic

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Ueno Park (Tokyo)
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Nihonbashi (Tokyo)

I wouldn’t want to spoil the Sakura magic with more details. But do consider coming to Japan in April. Watch out for exact dates, depending on location (this year Sakura was very early).

Thank you for reading.
Good Luck and Keep’em* Rolling!

(* Wheels & Dividends)

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